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La Habana Nightlife...

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Bar Monserrate
Avenida de Bélgica (Monserrate), esquina a Obrapía (no phone).

The Monserrate has the kind of cheap, but not so cheerful food that seems a great answer to those one o'clock in the morning hunger pangs. Otherwise, just enjoy the beer ($1) and the cocktails ($2.50), the resident band and the other tourists. This place is lively, and the service is always terrific – until they rip you off. Watch your change – they'd do your granny off here.

Bacardí Bar
Edificio Bacardí, Avenida de Bélgica (Monserrate), entre Progreso (San Juan de Dios) y Empedrado (629271/629208).
Open 8am-8pm Mon-Sat; closed Sun.

Nice little snug with leather upholstered seats and mirrored walls. The decor is exactly the same as it was in the 1930s, this time though, in contrast to most of Havana, it is shiny and new. Prices are reasonable and with a friendly tip, you will be shown to the mirador (lookout) at the top of the building for a wonderful view of old Havana. Recommended for a mojito out of the sun.
Air-conditioning.

Café de Paris
Calle San Ignacio #202,
esquina a Obispo
Open 24 hrs daily. Lots of punters, lots of jineteros and lots of live music (11am-11pm). .
Cafetería Sofía
Calle 23 #202, esquina a O (320540).
Open 24hrs daily. Apart from having a good atmosphere (it's always packed), there's not much to recommend this place. The '50s building is a turn-off for some visitors and the resident band, though very good, is also exceedingly loud. During the course of the Sofía's 24-hour day, however, all sorts drift in and out, which makes it a great place to people-watch. The atmosphere is further enhanced by open-plan terrace seating. Average snack food is available and prices (cocktails $3; beer $1) are pretty much normal for this part of town.
Chan Chan
In the Marina Hemingway
248 y 5ta Ave
Santa Fe, Playa

Café del Oriente
Calle Oficios, esquina a Amargura (602917).
Open Bar 24hrs daily. Restaurant noon-midnight daily.
Main courses $12-$30.

Also overlooking Plaza de San Francisco, Café del Oriente is a chill-out favourite. For some strange reason jineteros don't seem to descend on this place, so the pleasures of sipping a mojito and watching the plaza go by can be savoured in peace. Quality bands entertain both inside and out. The swish surroundings of the interior are the excuse for relatively expensive food. Service is excellent.
Air-conditioning. Outside tables.

Café O'Reilly
Calle O'Reilly #203, entre Cuba y San Ignacio (no phone).
Open 24hrs daily.

Don't go here expecting Guinness and a good old Irish fry, as tragically they are both unknown substances in Havana. Split between two floors joined by a cast-iron spiral staircase, Café O'Reilly is a relaxing place to stop in the middle of an Old Town tour. Sit on the balcony sipping a cocktail or a beer and listen to the caged birds sing over the bustle below. Food is basic – sandwiches, chicken and pizza – but well priced.

Café Taberna
Calle Mercaderes #531,
esquina a Brasil (Teniente Rey)
Open 11am- midnight daily. Café Taberna is also known as 'el Rincón de Beny Moré' (Beny's corner), because the whole place is dedicated to the man and his music. Full of new jukeboxes and old pictures of pre-Revolutionary celebrities, the airy bar/restaurant has a 1950s feel to it. El Septeto Matamoros and the Septeto Son de Trópico play son and bolero music here daily from 11am to 5pm and from 7pm to 11pm. Watch out: the waiters will rip you off in a flash. .

Casa de la Amistad
Paseo #406, entre 17 y 19, Vedado (303114/5).
Open 11am-midnight Mon-Fri; 11am-2am Sat; 11am-6pm Sun.
Admission $5 Tue, Sat only.

This magnificent place should be the British Ambassador's local as his residency is only a couple of doors down on Paseo. Strangely, though, you never see him propping up the bar or staggering home with a carry-out. It's his bad luck, for this converted mansion, with a luscious green garden, hosts great entertainment in the evenings. The food consists of basic snacks, including pizzas and chicken, but to be fair Amistad's real pulling power is its music and happy atmosphere, rather than its grub. Despite the cover charge ($5), this place is highly recommended.
Outside tables.

Casa de la cultura de La Habana Vieja
Calle Aguiar #509,
entre Amargura y Brasil (Teniente Rey)
Open Tue-Sun (performance times vary); closed Mon This very active casa features live gigs almost every night at around 8pm (6pm on Sunday), many of which are staged in the casa's beautiful old theatre or outside in the church courtyard. Young and old Cubans from the local neighbourhood come here to dance and listen to bolero on Tuesday, a Caribbean night on Wednesday, son on Thursday, Afro-Cuban music or reggae on Saturday and a varied programme on Fridays and Sundays. Phone the casa on Monday for details of the coming week's programme and then take your pick.

Casa del Coctel
Calle 23, esquina a Presidentes (G) (309375).
Open 24hrs daily.

Hidden behind a rickety wooden fence and tall potted plants, this place does bargain cocktails ($1 each) and should be visited only for that reason. If your stomach rumbles enough, you may be tempted to try the bargain $1.30 chicken and chips, but sticking to the booze is more advisable.
Outside tables.

Casa de las Infusiones
Calle Mercaderes,
entre Obispo y Obrap'a
Open 10am-10pm daily. An all-female son group and a classical string quartet play on alternate days from noon to 5pm, and there's also often a son or salsa group (at 7pm Tuesday to Saturday, and from noon on Sundays). The Casa de las Infusiones is also known as La Columnata Egipciana (Egyptian Colonnade).
Casa del Escabeche
Calle Obispo #505,
esquina a Villegas
Open 24hrs dailyA cosy but often packed little bar, which serves very good mojitos, with live son music from noon to 5pm every day.
Caserón del Tango
Calle Jústiz #21,
entre Baratillo y Oficios
Open 8am-midnight Mon-Sat; 8am-2am Sun. Located in a beautiful colonial mansion just around the corner from the Plaza de Armas in Old Havana, the Caserón del Tango is another of the city's musical treasure chests. Run by the Asociación Nacional Promotora del Tango, the venue aims to preserve and promote this music and dance form in Cuba. A wide range of activities are offered in the mansion's grounds, including informal tango pe-as from 5pm to 7pm on Wednesdays and Fridays, and a music and dance show starting at 10pm on Saturday. The bar is the venue for discussions and impromptu performances from 9.30pm to 2am on Sunday. Tango classes (which cost $5) are held from 4pm to 6pm Thursday and from 2pm to 4pm on Saturday. Even if you can't make it for one of the scheduled events, be sure to stop by for a swift drink and a little tango music in the charming peso bar out the back.

Dos Hermanos
Calle San Pedro #304, esquina a y Sol (no phone).
Open 24hrs daily.

As befits its location, this is a port-style bar, with the hookers around the back to prove it. It tends to be empty as it's just off the beaten track, but don't let this dissuade you from giving the Two Brothers a go. There's a good selection of reasonably priced cocktails ($2.50) and the cheap food is actually rather good. A better-than-average band provides entertainment – shame their ridiculously loud microphones ruin the show. Visitors hoping for a conversation will be leaving at 10.30pm.

El Patio
Plaza de la Catedral
Open noon- midnight daily. Located in front of the cathedral, this café-restaurant occupies one of the most beautiful spots in Havana and features live son music from 10am to midnight daily. Sadly, the roof-garden bar is now closed to the public, although it can be hired out for special events. Choose between the quiet, air-conditioned interior, an exquisite inner courtyard or the busier outer patio, for a relaxed view of the Cathedral. .

El Castillo de la Real Fuerza

The roof terrace of the castle is the most peaceful and pleasant place in Havana to sip a cocktail or a beer. The entrance is through the armour museum, which deters most punters, leaving you to enjoy the wonderful view of Casablanca in splendid isolation. Once you've climbed to the top, you'll be rewarded with a first-class view, wrought-iron furniture and a great mojito. It's fully worth the $1 admission charge to enjoy this place and a tour of La Giraldilla's statue (tip the waiter).
Outside tables.

Fundación Havana Club (Museo del Ron)
Avenida San Pedro, entre Sol y Muralla (no phone).
Open 9am-midnight daily.

The Rum Museum in the Fundación Havana Club is a grand setting for a bar, but the location and the prices render it a vacuum. The excellent resident singer deserves a far bigger, more appreciative audience than the cruise-ship passengers who dock across the road once a month. When there's no cruise ship in town, she stands and sings to a near-empty bar, so make the most of a private concert and drop in after the last museum tour at 4.30pm.
Outside tables.

La Bodeguita del Medio
Calle Empedrado #207,
entre San Ignacio y Cuba
Open noon-midnight daily. Hemingway's most famous haunt is always crowded, but the mojitos are worth the wait. Live trova is played in the bar and restaurant. .

La Fuente
Calle 13, esquina a Presidentes (G) (662514).
Open 8.30am-11.30pm daily.

La Fuente is a secret little garden hideaway tucked around the corner from the busy Avenida de los Presidentes (Calle G). A pleasant pond is the focal point of this very cheap yet dignified open-air café/bar. Spirits start at 30¢ a shot (the same price as a coffee), beers are just 85¢ and cocktails just $2.
Outside tables.

La Lluvia de Oro
Calle Obispo #316,
esquina a Habana
Open 8am-1am Mon-Thur; 8am-3am Fri-Sun. Old-fashioned drinking den with a long wooden bar and overhead fans.
La Mina
Calle Obispo #109,
entre Oficios y Mercaderes
Open 24hrs daily La Mina has a restaurant and two cafés; waiters and bands are shared with Al Cappuccino next door. The patios, located on Plaza de Armas, are a great spot to relax and listen to live son until 11pm followed by boleros until the early hours. The downside is that they can be rather touristy, though. .

La Roca
Calle 21, entre L y M (334501).
Open noon-midnight daily.

Forget the peso-looking exterior and venture into the bar for a quiet drink, where the low lighting and blue-glowing decor really capture the essence of '50s Havana. Cool, swanky and overflowing with character, La Roca should be a definite pit-stop on a bar crawl of Vedado. And if you need any more persuading, drink prices are more than decent.
Air-conditioning.

La Terraza del Hotel Nacional
Calle O, esquina a 21
Open 24hrs daily.

Stroll up the palm tree-lined, spotlit driveway; breeze past the fancily dressed doormen; strut straight through the glorious lobby and you'll pop out onto the Nacional's magnificent terrace; settle into a sofa and within a minute you can order that cocktail ($3.50) – can't be bad. This is definitely the place to smoke your latest black market purchases, but it's not at all pretentious and is the place in Havana to chill out. With music comfortably in the background and seats throughout the grounds, this place should not be missed. As a bonus you'll be rewarded with the best sea view in Havana.
Outside tables.

Roofgarden Bar
Hotel Ambos Mundos,
Calle Obispo #153,
esquina a Mercaderes
Open 7am-11pm daily If you're looking for a place with a great view of Old Havana and the bay, a lush garden-like atmosphere and live traditional music (11am-6pm, except Monday and Wednesday), then the rooftop bar of this near-legendary hotel is it. Light meals are available. and p146.

Roof Garden Bar
Hotel Inglaterra, Paseo de Martí (Prado), esquina a San Rafael (608595).
Open 6pm-2am Mon, Wed-Sun; closed Tue.

Overlooking the Parque Central is the hidden rooftop bar of Hotel Inglaterra. It's not the prettiest of bars, but the views (particularly the rooftop of the Gran Teatro) make it worth a visit. Generous cocktails and plenty of Cristal mean that it's not long before people loose their inhibitions and get up to dance on the catwalk-type stage. Only the resident band is capable of emptying the place with its over-enthusiastic use of a dangerously loud microphones.
Air-conditioning.

Yola en Familia
Calle Cuba,
entre Brasil (Teniente Rey) y Muralla
Open 4-7pm 3rd Sat of month only. For the past seven years this wonderful street event has brought together amateur and professional musicians from all over Havana as well as other parts of Cuba. It was set up by Yolanda Torres, an ex-Navy woman who now dedicates all of her time to cultural work in the local community. Torres believes strongly in the power of music and other art forms, and her pe-as aim to unite and inspire people, especially in these economic hard times. Her vision and enthusiasm have made this one of the most popular events in town. Don't miss it.

Yola en la Comunidad
Calle Muralla,
esquina a Compostela
Open 3pm-5pm Thur only. Another one of Yolanda's community projects, this pe-a takes place in a senior citizens' cafeteria in the old town, but is certainly not only for the elderly. Bolero music seems to dominate the activities, but other musical genres also crop up
Atelier
Calle 17,
esquina a 6
Open 10pm-4am daily. This cosy basement club has been recently refurbished and now boasts decent air-conditioning. Shows start at 11.30pm, and there's a Cuban disco afterwards.

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Café Cantante Mi Habana
Teatro Nacional, Paseo,
esquina a 39
Open 10.30pm-5am Mon; 4-7pm, 10.30pm-5am Tue-Sun. Relatively unknown, but nonetheless good bands play in the café of the National Theatre every night. Weekends are especially recommended. The Café Cantante Mi Habana also offers matinée peso performances (salsa and son music), which are usually filled with Cubans and are fun and lively, if you're in the mood for a late-afternoon dancing sesh. For a more tranquil after-hours venue, check out the upstairs Delirio Habanero bar. Dress code: no shorts.
Cafeteria Sofia
Calle 23 #202,
esquina a O
Open 24hrs daily. This airy cafeteria on La Rampa (the name for this end of Calle 23) has live music from 2pm to 6pm and from 8pm to 2am daily.

Casa de la Amistad
Paseo #406,
entre 17 y 19
Open 11am-midnight Mon-Fri; 11am-2am Sat; 11am- 6pm Sun. This elegant Tuscan-style villa used to be the headquarters of the House of Friendship between Cuba and the former Soviet Union. With the collapse of the Soviet bloc it has been converted into a tourist complex, featuring a restaurant, cigar shop and café. Musical performances, mostly son, take place every night in the gorgeous garden and patio area. Tuesday night is la Pe-a del Chan Chan and sometimes features Compay Segundo when he is in town. On Saturdays various son and bolero groups play an extended show.

Casa de la cultura de Plaza
Calzada #909,
entre 6 y 8
Open 9am-10pm Mon-Sat; closed Sun. This casa, named after the official municipality in which it's located, has a fantastic outside stage and patio with a lovely mural by artists Ariel D'az and Fiona Murphy dedicated to different art forms. Havana's famous jazz festival takes place here, as do many other concerts and smaller-scale gigs. Live son, bolero and jazz usually feature on Saturday nights at around 9pm.

Casa de las Américas
Calle 3ra,
esquina a Presidentes (G)
Open 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; closed Sat, Sun Apart from organising conferences and exhibitions relating to Latin American and Caribbean literature, art and music, this cultural centre also hosts performances in a wide variety of contemporary and traditional musical forms. Concerts usually take place in the early evening on weekdays.

Club Imágenes
Calle Calzada #602,
esquina a C
Open noon-3am daily. A perfect post-theatre, -movie or -cabaret venue. Live traditional and bolero music is played from 11pm onwards and light snacks and drinks are offered in the bar area. More substantial meals are also available in the restaurant.

Club Tikoa
Calle 23 #177,
entre N y O
Open 10pm-4am daily. Located on La Rampa (the name for this end of Calle 23), Club Tikoa is very popular with young Cubans, who dance the night away to mostly Latin tunes, salsa and merengue.
El Gato Tuerto
Calle O #14,
entre 17 y 19
Open noon-6am daily. The One-Eyed Cat used to be the place where young intellectuals and artists hung out in the 1970s and early '80s. It reopened recently after 12 years of closure, restored, revamped and redollared with pleasant, post-modern decor. Filin and bolero are still the main genres to be heard here. There's also a restaurant upstairs.
El Gran Palenque
Calle 4 #103,
entre Calzada y 5ta
Open 10am-10pm daily. Every Saturday at 3pm the Gran Palenque outdoor bar/café hosts a live rumba show on Saturdays (Sábado de la Rumba) by the fantastic Conjunto Folclórico Nacional de Cuba. If you're into Afro-Cuban rhythms and dance, this is an event not to be missed. The Conjunto also offers dance and percussion classes.
El Karachi
Calle K,
entre 15 y 17
Open 10pm- 5am daily. El Karachi is well known for playing a variety of rhythms from pop to rap. There is a daily midnight show while on Sundays there's a techno matinée from 4pm to 9pm.
El Pico Blanco
Hotel St John's,
Calle O #206,
entre 23 y 25
Open 10pm-4am daily. Known as the 'Rincón del filin' (filin corner), this is very much the place for live filin and bolero music. Performances start at 11pm and go on till at least 1am, after which the place turns into a disco. Located on the top floor of the Hotel St John's, this club has an amazing view of the bay and the city. It's the perfect place for a tranquil evening.

Habana Café
Hotel Meliá Cohiba,
Paseo, entre 1ra y 3ra
Open noon-4am daily. The café has a 1950s wannabe air to it. It's decorated with American classic cars (a Chevy, a Pontiac and a Buick), pictures of Hemingway and loads of pre-Revolutionary memorabilia. Live traditional music is played here on and off all day long and there's a show at 10pm from Monday to Saturday. Sunday nights feature first-rate bands such as Azur Negra, NG La Banda and Los Van Van. (These concerts usually start around 11pm.) Due to the high cover charge, this is pretty much a non-Cuban environment. The food is trying to be Hard Rock.

Hurón Azul/UNEAC
Calle 17 #351,
entre Presidentes (G) y H
Open 5pm-2am daily. The Unión de Escritores y Artistas de Cuba (UNEAC) hosts various weekly cultural events in the patio and garden of its beautiful mansion headquarters. (The name, incidentally, means 'blue ferret'.) Saturday is bolero night (9pm-2am); Wednesdays (5-8pm) alternate between nueva trova and rumba; and Sundays (from 5pm) feature son or rumba. All events can be highly recommended, although the rumba seems to be the most popular. Quite apart from the music, you might want to check out the scene in the Hurón Azul's bar, which attracts an eclectic mix of local artists, intellectuals, tourists and jineteros.
Jazz Café
Galerias del Paseo, Paseo,
esquina a 1ra
Open 11am-3am daily. This is Chuchó Valdés' turf. His group Irakere and other famous Cuban jazz bands often play here in two sets starting at 8pm and 11pm. Afterwards the place turns into a lively disco. The atmosphere is mellow and sophisticated. The café also operates as a restaurant, so come early to nab a good table.

La Azotea de Elda
Calle 23 #759,
entre B y C
Open 2-6pm 1st Sun of every month If you happen to be in town on the first Sunday of the month make sure not to miss this wonderful pe-a in the heart of Vedado. Elda, who owns the Paladar del Amor downstairs, opens up her rooftop (azotea) to anyone interested in good Cuban music. This is a great opportunity to mingle with Cubans of all ages and listen to both well-known and amateur groups playing everything from rap to son. Complimentary rum and wine are served, or you can bring a bottle to add to the party spirit. The event is free, but people are encouraged to make a donation to the local cancer research hospital. An absolute gem.

La Red
Calle 19 #151,
esquina a L
Open Sept-June 10pm-4am daily. July, Aug 3-9pm, 10pm-4am dailyA charmingly dilapidated, pre-Revolutionary basement club with fishing motifs and retro decor. There's good seating and dancing space and, wait for it, air-conditioning that works. A show with live music - usually salsa, reggae or rap - takes place at midnight every night. Afterwards the place turns into a regular disco. Snacks are available.

La Zorra y el Cuervo
Calle 23,
entre N y O
Open 9.30pm- 4am daily. Named after a well-known Spanish fable ('The Fox and the Crow'), this near-legendary jazz basement on La Rampa hosts well-known local and foreign musicians every night. The first set begins at 10.30pm, the second at midnight. Freezing air-conditioning.

Las Bulerias
Calle L, entre 23 y 25
Open Café 24hrs daily. Restaurant 10am-4am daily. By night, this Spanish-style tavern is no longer the wild disco it once was, but it still features live traditional Cuban dance music after midnight.

Las Vegas
Calzada de Infanta #104,
esquina a 25
Open 10pm-5am daily. This bar with a separate dance area is popular with Afro-Cuban youth. There's a show at 11.30pm and light snacks are served.
Pabellón Cuba
Calle N #266, squina a 23
Open 9am-5pm daily Apparently this 1960s creation used to be quite attractive, with its many waterfalls, lotus flowers and pools of tropical fish. Nowadays the Pabellón looks more like a decaying monster. Located on the corner of La Rampa, it is one of the UJC's (Union of Young Communists) main cultural venues. All sorts of events take place here, including live concerts during the cultural festivals. Salsa, rap, rock and reggae gigs all feature; there's also a disco. Check outside billboards or call for further information.
Patio de Maria
Calle 37,
entre Paseo y 2
Open usually 7.30am-11pm daily. Director Mar'a Gattorno turned this former casa de la cultura into a thriving and totally unpretentious community centre for Havana's counter-cultural and specifically roquero youth. During one of Cuba's bleakest periods, the early 1990s, the Patio performed a major social function by giving these youngsters a space to express themselves, and over the years has also been very involved in AIDS prevention educational work. As the time of going to press, the Patio was in the process of restoration but is still offering an important, if reduced, programme of activities. Look out for notices around Coppelia, the university and other social hubs. Note that the venue is officially called the Casa de Cultura Roberto Branly, but is more commonly known by its address.

Piano Bar Delirio Habanero
Teatro Nacional, Paseo,
esquina a 39
Open noon-4am daily. A great post-theatre, -show or -dinner place. Live bolero and son are played in a cosy and intimate setting with an impressive night-time view on to the Plaza de la Revolución.

Teatro Mella
L'nea #657,
entre A y B
Open Box office 10am-5pm daily. The Teatro Mella is home of the Conjunto Folclórico Nacional de Cuba and is mainly used for dance performances. However, rock and trova concerts are also often held here.
Teatro Nacional de Cuba
Paseo,
esquina a 39
Open Box office 10am-6pm Tue-Sun; closed Mon. The Teatro Nacional is a theatre/concert hall/night-club complex, containing the Sala Covarrubia and Sala Avellaneda, the Café Cantante, as well as the Delirio Habanero piano bar. The two salas frequently host the National Symphony Orchestra as well as other big names from the nueva trova, rock and son scene.
Club Ipanema
Hotel Copacabana, Avenida 1ra,
entre 44 y 46
Open 10pm-4am daily. If you're looking for a standard club with good air-conditioning, a reasonable cover, decently priced drinks and a good mix of Cuban and other beats, this is where you want to be
El Bolero
Complejo Dos Gardenias, Avenida 7ma,
esquina a 26
Open 10pm-3am daily. Havana's main bolero club hosts different groups and singers in two shows every night (from 10pm to midnight and from 12.15am to 3am).
La Cecilia
Avenida 5ta #11010,
entre 110 y 112
Open currently closed for renovation. The cabaret area of this tourist complex was closed for renovation at the time of going to press. When it reopens in 2001, La Cecilia is expected to host big-name salsa bands on Thursday to Sunday nights. There will probably be no cover charge, but a $10 drinks minimum is likely to be enforced.
La Maison
Calle 16 #701,
esquina a 7ma
Open 9.30pm-1am daily. This tourist entertainment and shopping complex has a nightly show (10.15pm to 12.30pm) followed by an outdoor disco.
Los Caneyes del Papa
Marina Hemingway, Calle 248
esquina a 5ta, Barlovento
Open 10.30pm-4am daily. Standard nightclub with a live salsa band at 12.30am on Friday and Saturday nights. It's only worth a visit if you are staying at or close to the Marina.
Piano Bar Piel Canela
La Maison, Calle 16,
esquina a 7ma
Open 10pm-4am daily. This late-night bar features live bolero music and a comedy show from 10 to 11.30pm. The clientele is mainly Cuban.
Teatro Karl Marx
Avenida 1ra,
esquina a 8
Open Box office 9am-6pm Mon-Sat; closed Sun. Better known as 'el Carlos Marx', this is Havana's largest theatre, with a seating capacity of almost 5,000. As tickets are still in pesos, this is where Cubans come to see big names such as Isaac Delgado, Silvio Rodr'guez and Los Van Van. Recently, Buena Vista Social Club held its first Cuban concert here. Tourist tickets are priced in dollars, but you can often pay in pesos

Tropicana
Calle 72 No. 4504 y Calle 43, Marianao
Tuesday to Sunday 9pm / 2am

Parisien
Hotel Nacional
Friday till Wednesday 9pm / 2:30am
Turquino
Calle L
e/23 y 25.
In the Habana Libre Tryp Hotel.
On the top floor overlooking Vedado, Salsa
Casa de la Musica
Calle 20 esquina 35
Miramar / Playa
The "New" Casa de la Musica
is in Galliano, about opposite to la tienda "La Epoca".
If you're looking for a really good place for live salsa and money is not a factor, then this is the place to come. Situated in a beautiful mansion in Miramar, the Casa de la Música hosts all the well-known groups in the evening, plus less-famous bands playing salsa and traditional music in the afternoons. Food and drinks are served.
Casa de la cultura de Centro Habana
Avenida Salvador Allende (Carlos III) #720,
entre Soledad y Castillejo

This very popular venue usually hosts a variety of nightly musical activities. At the time of going to press, it was closed for repairs and due to reopen early in 2001. Call ahead to check out what's on.
Casa de la trova de Centro Habana
Calle San Lázaro #661,
entre Padre Varela (Belascoa'n) y Gervasio
Open from 5pm daily. Live trova music is played here most evenings, but Fridays from 6pm is the time to stop by. This cultural gem is usually crowded with locals and can be highly recommended.
Caserón del Tango
Calle Neptuno #309,
entre øguila y Italia (Galiano).
Open 10am-8pm daily This museum-cum-cultural centre dedicated to the tango was founded by Edmundo Daubal in 1980 as a showpiece for his collection of tango sheet music, records, tapes, trophies and other memorabilia, amassed over half a century. The tango was very popular in Cuba during the 1930s and '40s, as evidenced by the grey-haired regulars who now flock to the casa's weekly events. Join them for fantastic music, dance and a very welcoming atmosphere. The main attraction for visitors is the live tango music and dance on Mondays from 5pm to 8pm. Although formal tango classes are not currently on offer, the casa should be able to put you in touch with a private teacher.
Centro Andaluz en Cuba
Paseo de Mart' (Prado) #104,
entre Genios y Refugio
Open noon-8pm Tue-Thur; noon-midnight Fri-Sun; closed Mon. This is one of Havana's many Spanish cultural centres. Dedicated to keeping the city's Andalusian roots alive, the centre offers a show with live flamenco music on Fridays (9pm), Saturdays (10pm) and Sundays (9pm) followed by dancing. There are also flamenco classes from 9am to 11am Tuesday to Thursday at $15 per hour.
Disco Chang
Calle San Nicolás #517,
entre Dragones y Zanja, Centro Habana
Open 10.30pm-3am Fri-Sun only. Chang's is a privately owned club housed in a first-floor flat in the heart of Barrio Chino (Chinatown), which makes for a rather peculiar but unique ambience. It's popular with both Cubans and foreigners; many people start out here and then move on to nearby Los Tres Chinitos, which stays open until dawn. Watch out for the long queues of heavily made-up girls who wait impatiently at the bottom of Chang's stairway entrance on most Friday and Saturday nights. Women get in for less than men, which might explain it.
Disco Ribera Azul
Hotel Deauville, Avenida de Italia (Galiano),
entre San Lázaro y Malecón
Open 10pm-3am daily. Recently refurbished basement club that caters to both Cubans and foreigners with a variety of Cuban and international music. There is a reasonable show on Fridays to Sundays starting at around 11pm, and affordable drinks and light snacks are also available.
El Palermo
Calle San Miguel #252,
esquina a Amistad (619745)
Open 10pm-4am daily.
This place is a favourite with Afro-Cuban youth due to the rap and other black music genres that dominate here. It's run-down, but recommended for a totally different kind of night out in Havana. Shows start at midnight.
La Madriguera
Quinta de los Molinos,
entre Infanta y Salvador Allende (Carlos III)
Open 9am-7pm Mon-Wed, Fri, Sat; 9am-midnight Thur; closed Sun. La Madriguera is the headquarters of the Asociación Hermanos Sa'z, the youth wing of the UNEAC (Union of Writers and Artists of Cuba). Its main aim is to provide institutional support for and promotion of young artistic talent, but it also organises concerts, exhibitions, conferences and festivals. La Madriguera is located in the beautiful park of La Quinta de los Molinos, where you'll find individual musicians and groups rehearsing at all times of the day. Stop by to find out about upcoming concerts or just hang out and listen to some great tunes. La Rockoteca disco is held here every Thursday (8pm to midnight).
La Pe-a de Yoya
San Lázaro #667 apt 9,
entre Padre Varela (Belascoa'n) y Gervasio (second entrance on the right of Casa de la Trova)
Open 10pm-1am Fri only. Sadly, the almost-legendary Yoya died recently, but after 20 years of success her pe-a is still going strong. Every Friday night a loyal group of filin musicians and fans meet at the home of Yoya's sister Lucy to play and listen to old and new tunes in an intimate and very welcoming atmosphere. Highly recommended if you like romantic ballads and guitar music.
La Terraza
Hotel Lincoln, Avenida de Italia (Galiano) #164,
esquina a Virtudes
Open 10am-midnight Mon-Thur, Sun; 10am-2am Fri, Sat. This open-air, roof-top disco is a little dilapidated, but it does have a great view of the ocean and the city. It's geared towards both foreigners and nationals - it tends to get packed with Cubans, especially on Saturdays - and prices are very reasonable. There's a mixed music policy (everything from salsa to techno) and a live show at 10pm from Friday to Sunday.
Los Tres Chinitos
Dragones,
entre Manrique y Campanario
Open 11pm-6am daily. Come prepared for some serious dancing and a lot of jineteras at Los Tres Chinitos in barrio chino (Chinatown). If you need to refuel or the late-night munchies suddenly hit you, pop next door for the best pizza in town (open 24hrs).
Oasis
Paseo de Mart' (Prado) #256,
entre ønimas y Trocadero
Open 9pm-3am daily. Lots of salsa and Cuban rhythms are played at this relaxed and very Cuban club. Some people have dinner at Basora, the Arab-Cuban restaurant upstairs, before coming down to Oasis to dance. There is a live show at 11pm.
Rumba del Callejón de Hamel
Callejón de Hamel, esquina a Hospital
Open 11am-3pm Sun only Although slightly touristy, this weekly street rumba is still a must. The event takes place every Sunday in the picturesque Callejón de Hamel, one block south of Calle San Lázaro. Local artist Salvador has converted this little pedestrian lane into an Afro-Cuban world of its own, with brightly coloured murals, sculptures and installations. During the Sunday rumbas the orishas are called and the whole place comes to life.
Teatro América
Avenida de Italia (Galiano) #253,
entre Concordia y Neptuno
Open Box office 10am-4pm Tue-Sun; closed Mon. Modelled after New York's Radio City Music Hall, the América hosts all kinds of concerts, but especially rock, rap and reggae. Check the theatre billboards for concert information.

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